Mushing down the mountain

Each January, the area around Mont Blanc in the Alps hosts La Grande Odyssée, a ten-day race for mushers and dogs from around the world. We thought it would be interesting to go for a day during our winter holiday – and found ourselves caught up in the fun. Riding a sled to the top of a mountain, lunching with the crack French Regiment of Chasseurs Alpins, spattered with snow as we watched sleds race through villages, we shared the highs and lows of the mushers.

The big dog sled events in Canada and the States are run across vast snowy wastes, but here the teams race through the valleys and villages, so you are close to the excitement, even watching from a café. We soon made friends with locals who knew exactly which village was offering hot chocolate, or who was doling out mulled wine.

Getting there was easy; Michael Birtles of European Rail arranged rail travel via Eurostar, staff to meet us at stations with slick wheelchair ramps, ready-waiting taxis, and apartments with easy access. Some of us stayed in hotels, and again tourist boards are incredibly helpful, and can fit activities to whatever you want to do. Alpine people believe you can do what you want – even climb mountains (although in our case the tourist office arranged for us to go up in cable cars).

Dog sledding is suitable for everyone, however disabled – you stand on the rear runners of the sled, or sit inside and glide along. The French are big dog lovers and all across the Alps there are local kennels where visitors can spend an hour or a day. Dog teams are used
to autistic, blind and disabled “mushers” – welcoming anyone who gives them a cuddle.

Watching the racing, we shared hot sausages with locals on the snowy slopes, and soon realised if we had lost a kid they were either helping (hindering) the mushers harness up the dogs, or had gone off with their new “ami” without worrying about us. The communities are very close-knit, and if the worst should happen and someone gets lost, meeting Vincent Martin and his massive search dog Gino, we understood that the locality takes safety very seriously.
We had heard how “user-friendly” dog sledding is, but never imagined it would be so exciting. On one of the best days we watched a massed start with more than 300 dogs lined up straining in harnesses, desperate to get going and out-run their rivals. The noise was ear-splitting and we were left breathless as dogs and sleds raced off down the valley. All afternoon we followed the race through tiny villages, marvelling at how the dogs managed to steer through narrow streets and over bridges, up banks and across fields.

As the days progressed our little group began to talk knowledgeably about calories the dogs needed (6,000 a day), how teams wear little bootees to protect paws if the going is rough, and how the Europeans were winning against the heavily-sponsored entries from North America.

Americans, Alaskans and Canadians had come over in force. They are the experts, with the Iditarod and the Yukon Quest races offering millions in prize money, and sponsorship taking them into the footballers’ pay league, and flew over with teams of 14 dogs each. Taking part requires grit, determination and incredible fitness; imagine running a marathon every day, steering a team of excitable dogs, lifting your sled every time it sticks in snowdrifts, harnessing frantic dogs who won’t stand still, and still having enough strength in your arms to guide dogs over the finish line.

Eventually, a Swede, Petter Karlsson, raced through flaming flambeau lining the finish to win, followed by Emil Inauen (Switzerland) and Ketil Reitan (Norway).

We had meant to stay a few days, then come home via EuroDisney. The kids vetoed that so we moved over to La Moulin de Marie Hotel in Lanslebourg, to be right in the middle of the French festivities, and try out the Dahut Restaurant in Val Cenis. Now this is serious eating – proving a confident chef can produce the most delicious meal out of nothing more than top quality meat, fish and vegetables cooked simply – but just sublime. Jean Noel Brunel loves to talk food, and during the truffle season will be in the middle of earnest discussions on the merits of black or white truffles, but for visitors like us with picky children he provided an instant hit with hot stones on which we could cook ready-prepared fish and meat of a melt-in-the mouth quality.

The day we went up the mountain, picked up sleds and were whisked up to the mountaintop to lunch with the Chasseurs Alpins was another highlight. Met at the cable car by Balto and his fellow huskies, we took off in different sleds according to ability, and went across the mountains up to the “barracks” of the Chasseur Alpin, where Capt Bernard Virelaude gave us a fascinating talk in English about the life of this crack regiment, just back from serving in Bosnia and Afghanistan.

All arranged by the tourist board, and voted uber-cool by the kids. Husky activities continue year-round; our group were told that in summer they can go Husky-hiking – a dog is harnessed up to a line around the waist, and can help pull a hiker gently up steep slopes. And no, it’s not cruel; these dogs are far too strong to be made to do anything against their will. Mountain communities live outdoors with swimming pools, kayaking and other sports tailored for disabled people, and wonderful food. And just down the valley is the spa town of Brides-les-Bains; heaven for stressed-out mums!

Our group have grand plans to return next year and get their husky driving diploma; we shall see…