Joining the Canadian club

A trip to the Rocky Mountains might not seem the most accessible holiday, but Kathy Longley was delighted to find easy access in the heart of the Canadian wilderness

My initial sighting of the Canadian Rockies simply rendered me speechless; not a common occurrence, I can assure you. I stared awestruck at the majestic, snow-capped mountains arising from vast expanses of lush, coniferous forests, interspersed with vivid, emerald green lakes and meandering rivers. It was breathtaking, and I could understand why, to the native inhabitants, the Stoney tribe, these mountains were sacred places. I was filled with the eager desire of the 18th century European explorers to access this wilderness and experience all it had to offer. But how would I fare on wheels?

Fortunately, we had chosen the province of Alberta, not only the richest province in western Canada, due to its abundance of oil, but the one leading the way in making the Canadian wilderness accessible to all. I was delighted to discover many paved, well-maintained trails offering easy access into the depths of the wilderness and wheelchair-friendly bathroom facilities even in the remotest of carparks. The local people were friendly and welcoming and always ready to help wherever we went.

Our first destination was Kananaskis. In 1981, the Alberta provincial government funded the construction of William Watson Lodge, fully accessible accommodation designed specifically for people with disabilities. The facilities are basic but offer excellent accessibility, with each log cabin carefully designed to allow full access to wheelchair-users, with hoist facilities available in the bedroom and bathroom. The paved pathways within the complex have gravel on the sides to alert those with visual impairments, and Braille is printed on every sign. Shake awake alarms are provided, as well as books in large print and Braille, and a range of board games to keep you occupied in the evening.

The cost of the accommodation is heavily subsidised, with a one-bedroom cabin costing only $30 (£15) per night. The only real problem is securing a reservation. Local Albertans have first choice, and other visitors can’t book until two months in advance, with reservations taken only by phone. Guests must bring their own bedding, which can be inconvenient if you're travelling from abroad. But if you can get a reservation, it is well worth the effort. We managed to secure a five night stay and simply brought sleeping bags and pillows.

Once settled in, I was keen to explore, but with 18 km of accessible trails direct from the lodge, it was hard to know in which direction to head first. As it was late in the day, we opted for the short one km stroll down to Lower Kananaskis Lake to admire the views and look for wildlife. You certainly don't have to be much of an explorer to spot the Canadian wildlife; simply driving along the highway you will encounter deer, elk and Bighorn sheep. If you spot a few cars pulled over by the side of the road then it is worth slowing down, as it just might be a bear sighting. These enthralling creatures are irresistible, but the Canadian authorities are working hard to educate tourists about the dangers of bear spotting. In the summer months of July and August, when tourists come here in droves, a bear sighting can cause a major traffic jam. Regular encounters can habituate the bears to human presence, making them less fearful and more likely to enter built-up areas and become a threat.

One safe place to spot bears is the Peter Lougheed information bureau, just down the road from the lodge. As well as a dedicated bear-spotting lounge, there are maps of all the accessible trails, Braille on all displayed items, and audiovisual commentaries on Canadian history, wildlife and the environment, far surpassing any of the museums on offer in nearby Banff.

Banff is the place to head to enjoy panoramic views over the Rockies, with a gondola to whisk you up to the top of Sulphur Mountain (2,281m). Access, though, is mediocre. A portable ramp means you can easily load a wheelchair into the gondola, but once at the summit you are restricted to a small observation platform, as other areas are dominated by steps and so completely inaccessible.

Banff’s thermal springs, which are fully accessible, will help you recover from the chill at the summit.

Discovered in 1883 by railway workers working on the lower slopes of Sulphur Mountain, the springs were opened to bathers in the 1930s. The complex has been fully renovated, with modern amenities including full disabled access, and offers the opportunity to luxuriate in waters of 39.9 degrees centigrade.

One sight you can’t miss is Lake Louise. The first European to gaze on its beauty was Tom Wilson in 1882.

He was so struck by its vivid green colour that he named it Emerald Lake, only for it to be renamed Lake Louise several years later in honour of Princess Louise Caroline Alberta, the sixth child of Queen Victoria.

Turn up early or in the late afternoon to avoid the crowds or you will be jostling for position to take that memorable snapshot. There is a flat, accessible two km trail along the shoreline and the opportunity to go kayaking, although the exorbitant fee of £20 per half hour may deter you!

If you fancy something to get the adrenaline pumping, head to Kicking Horse River to experience white water rafting. The company, Hydra, allowed myself and my partner to do a “mild” run (with class I-III rapids) together, after which I got out and he continued into the class IV rapids. I must admit, the safety brief half scared me to death as the guide described in a rather bored, monotone voice all the things that could possibly go wrong. However, before I could ponder my looming death in detail we were kitted out in wetsuits, life jackets and helmets and ushered down to the rafts. Having been assisted into the raft, I perched on the edge as instructed, gripping my paddle. To take part you need to be able to swim, paddle and be prepared to sign all your rights away through a comprehensive waiver.

The ride began sedately with the raft floating placidly, allowing time to reabsorb the safety briefing and to chat to my companions. But once we hit the class III rapids the adrenaline kicked in as the raft lurched and crashed through the waves, with glacial water drenching us from head to foot as we hung on to the safety ropes. My guide had oars, giving him more control to guide the raft round boulders and fallen trees, which was just as well as my paddling wasn’t up to much. Soaking wet and rather sore, but fully exhilarated, I was helped out of the raft and driven back to base for dry clothes and a spot of lunch while my companions continued down the river.

Hydra is happy to accommodate anyone with a disability wherever possible, providing they have carers with them. The guides will spend more time explaining the safety procedures to those with visual impairments and allow those with hearing impediments to be placed near the guide so they can lipread. It's an awesome experience and well worth getting wet for!

Travel Tips

Flights: flights from London Heathrow to Calgary, about a 1.5 hour drive from Kananaskis, cost around £500

Time of year to travel: spring and autumn are the best times to visit to avoid the summer crowds. Always take warm clothes and waterproofs whenever you go, as mountain weather is very unpredictable.

Accessible accommodation:
William Watson Lodge: tel: 001 403 591 7227, office opening hours Monday to Friday, 8.30am to 4pm
Banff Town and Lake Louise village hostels, £12-40 per night, www.hihostels.ca
Delta Lodge in Kananaskis, doubles £100-250, www.deltalodgeatkananaskis.ca
Fairmont Hotels at Banff and Lake Louise, doubles £125-450, www.fairmont.com

Useful Websites:
www.parks.gov.ab.ca/kananaskis
www.banffgondola.com
www.raftbanff.com (Hydra)
www.hotsprings.ca