History's crossroads

When looking for an out-of-season city break in the Mediterranean, Penny Batchelor chose Valletta, capital of Malta

The island makes it into most summer-sun tourist brochures as a sea-and-sand destination. But steeped in history, out of season it makes a great city break destination – just pack your jumper rather than your bikini.

Whilst much of the east coast of Malta is dedicated to tourist resorts snaking round the sunny coasts, the capital, Valletta, retains its ancient charm. With its historical buildings, small, quirky shops and beautiful views, it’s the place to head to on Malta for a long weekend. In winter temperatures can be warm and balmy – but don’t forget your brolly just in case.

Valletta, situated on the island’s east coast, is a Unesco World Heritage Site. The city is named after Jean Parisot de la Valette, who founded it in 1566. De la Valette was the Grand Master of the Order of St John, a Catholic military order. The Knights of St John first came to Malta in 1530. After defeating a siege by Grand Turk Suleiman the Magnificent, they built the city fortress of Valletta. As well as being a military order, the Knights placed a great emphasis on tending to the sick and unwell.

The Knights ruled Malta until Napoleon captured the island in 1798. After locals rose up against the French, Britain took Malta under its protection and the British influence is still noticeable today. Signposts
and street names are in both Maltese and English, as are restaurant menus and local information. The widespread use of English on the island adds to its appeal to British tourists.

Today the most prominent reminder of the Order of St John is the city’s St John’s Co-Cathedral. Completed in 1577, it has a chapel for each ‘langue’ that made up the order – Italy; France; Provence; Anglo-Bavaria; Aragon; Auvergne; Castille, Leon and Portugal. Paintings on the walls include a famous altar piece by Caravaggio. Work is currently being done to extend the museum in the cathedral. When I visited, the ramp entrance was blocked off, but once inside access was no problem.

Malta joined the EU in 2004 and switched to the Euro for its currency at the beginning of 2008. With the current Euro/Sterling exchange rate Malta can seem quite pricey to British holidaymakers, but bargains can still be found. The city’s shops include British favourites such as Marks & Spencer and BHS (at much more expensive prices than at home!); small souvenir shops; and local family businesses that look like they haven’t changed in the past half-century. Wandering round the back streets, away from the main tourist trap, reveals many gems.

Watch out when you are browsing – the narrow streets and steep hills don’t make Valletta the easiest place to get around. It’s a good excuse though to take a rest and stop at one of the many outdoor cafés to people watch. Taxis find it tough to cut through the swathes of pedestrians in the capital, so it’s best to catch one of the electric vehicles that have pick up and drop off points around the city. Reminiscent of golf buggies they weave through the streets at a sedate pace, but the driving sometimes is rather erratic!

For a break from the busy streets head to the Upper or Lower Barrakka Gardens. At the upper gardens there are great views across the Grand Harbour and a cannon is fired every day at noon. Benches lining the edge of the gardens make this a popular spot for schoolchildren, local workers and older people to meet.

The lower gardens overlook the entrance to the grand harbour. For a credit-crunch lunch, take your sandwiches to the gardens, but watch out for the hungry pigeons that seemingly appear from nowhere when food appears.

Malta has a history of being ruled by different nations. Statues in the Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens commemorate British rule. Finally, in 1964, Malta won its independence from Britain.

The residence of the President of the Republic of Malta, the Grandmaster’s Palace in Valletta used to be the home of the Grand Master of the Order of St John and then the British Governor. It’s free to look round the palace when parliament is not in session, although if you want to look round the armoury museum you will have to pay. It’s worth visiting the palace to see the ornate yet modest Council Chamber. The tourist entrance, by the ticket booth, has stairs. For accessible entry go to the front entrance where the guard stands to attention – he will let you in and point the way to the lift.

At night Valletta’s offerings are on the charming and sedate side: choose from a meal at a local restaurant, watching a film at the cinema or propping up the bar at your hotel.

For a wilder time head to the area of Paceville, a taxi ride northwards up the coast. Paceville is Malta’s
party zone with clubs, bars and a younger clientele.

Valletta has enough to see to keep you happy for a couple of days, but if you are staying longer then take a coach tour, boat ride or bus trip to explore the rest of the island. Boat trips go for a short sail to take a look at Valletta’s coastline from the sea.

Alternatively, tourist boats run frequently to Malta’s sister islands of Gozo and Comino. Comino is the smaller island and attracts watersports fans who want to dive, snorkel and windsurf. No cars are allowed on the island, making it not so easy to get round.

Gozo is famous for being mentioned in Homer’s ancient story The Odyssey. It is much more rural than Malta and is working hard to keep its local traditions and landscapes. Tourism is encouraged, yet you won’t find the bustling resorts that you will in Malta.

Back on dry land in Valletta, for a day trip out of the capital catch one of the yellow Malta buses from the bus station on the edge of the city. Some are modern with wheelchair access, whilst others are classic American-style buses hailing from the 1950s. Buses are cheap and cheerful and it’s a good way to see local life.

There are a few tour companies to choose from who run half-day and full-day coach tours. Popular destinations include the megalithic temples; the blue grotto, natural sea caves on the south of the island; and Medina, the first capital of Malta. Tours are bookable from your hotel or at the tourist information office in Valletta, at the entrance to the old city. Expect to pay in the region of £20 for a tour. Alternatively, bypass the coach tours and go on a jeep safari to explore Malta off the beaten track and off-road. The driver will take you on a private tour of the scenic sights.

Malta and Valletta certainly make for a relaxing, cultural break, only a short plane hop from Britain. Out of season the capital is less frenetic and the balmy temperature makes it a breeze to explore. Be prepared to spend a few extra pounds due to the current Euro exchange rate…and put on a few extra pounds when tempted by the cakes in the many cafes.

FACT FILE
Don’t miss:
• The Grandmaster’s Palace – see the seat of Malta’s government
• The 12 noon firing of the cannon at the Upper Barrakka Gardens
• Sampling a Maltese cake at one of Valletta’s outdoor cafes
• Taking a trip to the Tarxien temples, dating way back to 3,000BC
• Partying in Paceville

How to get there:
Air Malta currently flies to Malta from 11 British airports. Charter flights are also available from package tour companies. Expect to pay around £60 per night for a room with breakfast in a three star hotel in the Valletta area.

Disability information:
For local disability contacts visit the Maltese government’s website: National Commission Persons with Disability – http://www.knpd.org/