Africa's warm heart

Until Madonna adopted a child from Malawi, few Europeans had even heard of the country. But, says Priya Kotecha, who lived there for 17 years, they were missing something special

Most travellers don’t put a small, land-locked country like Malawi – neatly tucked away in south-eastern Africa and barely visible on a map of the continent – on their list of possible holiday destinations.

Surrounded by Tanzania, Zambia and Mozambique, the charm of this small and beautiful country – dubbed the “warm heart of Africa” because of its friendly people – is that it accommodates the needs of most tourists.

And it has a tremendous variety of landscapes – from the rolling hills of Nyika to the forests of the Zomba plateau, the 10,000 feet Mulanje Massif and the fertile Shire Valley.

There are also nine wildlife reserves, an incredible variety of birdlife, and the hundreds of miles of sandy beaches that line Lake Malawi.

But the laid-back locals, the soaring temperatures –especially from September to December – and some very bumpy roads, mean you should allow plenty of time to get around.

The country’s greatest natural asset is Lake Malawi, which runs from north to south and criss-crosses through the country’s eastern border with Tanzania. One of the oldest freshwater lakes in the world, at 40 million years, it draws watersports fans and those looking for peace and tranquility on the beach and to enjoy the beauty of its glistening blue waters.

It also boasts some of the best freshwater diving sites in the world and there is said to be a greater variety of fish than any other lake in the world.

There are many resorts, but some of the best are Mangochi to the south and Salima, further north.

Salima is also known for the flora and fauna of Bird Island, which tourists can visit via a one-hour boat trip, if they are happy to risk the hippo-infested waters.

As for access, most buildings are built on one level and locals will always be willing to offer assistance.

Since the 2004 election, there has been a new programme of investment across the country, and disabled access has improved, as has the quality of roads, infrastructure and luxury accommodation around remote areas to the north and south, such as the Zomba plateau in the south and the Nyika plateau to the north.

The plateaus in particular offer breathtaking natural views, from heights of 2,000 metres and above, and with 400 species of birds and 200 species of orchid to spot. Activities include mountain-climbing and abseiling (although you should be careful with the quality and safety of the equipment), horse-riding, mountain-biking, trekking, or just sitting back in beautiful landscaped gardens to watch the sun disappear beneath the horizon.

Malawi has nine national parks and wildlife reserves spread across the country, and the wildlife includes lions, leopards, buffalo, antelope, rhino, hippos and elephants. The country offers all kinds of safari experience, whether on foot, horseback, by boat or in a 4x4.

Eight of the parks and reserves are land-based, but near the southern end of Lake Malawi is the world’s first freshwater national park, at Cape Maclear.

Malawi was almost unheard of until Madonna adopted David Banda two years ago, but with the variety of its attractions and stunning scenery, Africa’s warm heart surely won’t remain a secret for long.

INFORMATION

There is one direct flight from London every week, via Air Malawi, but there are a number of much more frequent indirect routes via South Africa and Kenya with British Airways,

South African Airways and Kenya Airways. The two international airports are in the capital Lilongwe and Blantyre, the commercial capital. A visitor’s visa is provided on arrival and lasts 28 days. There is a
US$30 departure tax for international flights.

Insure your wheelchair and don’t rely on hiring equipment in Malawi.

Arranging transport within the country is fairly easy and a number of car hire firms now also cater for disabled travellers.

Try Apex rent-a-car at www.apexrentacarmw.com

The winter months of July to September remain most popular. March to June is probably the best time to visit. The weather is brilliant, without being too hot, and there is access to a greater range of transport, because you avoid the peak tourist season and can avoid getting stuck in muddy dirt roads during the monsoon season.

The best way to explore Malawi is by road. Although there are direct flights from both international airports to the most popular part of the country, Mangochi, the 45-minute journey in a 12-seater box with wings is not for the faint-hearted.

Most of the locals are friendly and speak English, but you will need to keep your wits about you to prevent them over-charging you.

Even the remotest parts of the country now have hostels and lodges for those willing to give up a bit of luxury, but mobile coverage remains patchy. Accommodation prices vary, of course, but you can usually find a decent twin or double room for £45 a night, which includes breakfast, an en-suite bathroom, a fireplace and often use of a swimming pool.

For a full list of accommodation, visit: www.tribes.co.uk/countries/malawi or www.theeye.co.mw

For more information, contact the Malawi Tourism Information Office (UK), tel: 0115 982 1903, email: enquiries@malawitourism.com or visit www.malawitourism.com