A tale of two islands

MAN ALIVE

Nowhere combines kippers, accountants and motorbikes as well as the Isle of Man. Throw in picture box countryside, beautiful beaches, Viking history and vintage public transport, and, says Graham Kelly, you find more than you might imagine in a space only 30 miles by 12

My own welcome to the Isle of Man came at a very young age, spending most of my first year on the island with my father’s family, subsequently returning for childhood holidays. In those days my father and grandfather ferried hundreds of thousands of tourists from Northern Ireland, Scotland and the north of England, but the island’s economy suffered from the 1970s, as the Mediterranean became affordable to the domestic holidaymaker.

Most of the accommodation and facilities are in the main town of Douglas, on the east coast.

The other towns of Ramsey in the North, Peel in the West (pictured above), and Castle Rushen to the south are little more than villages by mainland standards.

The Isle of Man is not part of the UK, and the government used this independence to transform the local economy by becoming a tax haven, attracting many wealthy Britons to become residents. These “come-overs” as the locals call them, include Norman Wisdom, Jeremy Clarkson, the DJ Andy Kershaw, and an army of accountants working in the financial sector. As a result, the population is now evenly split between those born on the island, and those born in the UK.

But the old tourist attractions remain, and the island has a unique charm. Trams pulled by horses wearing nappies, open-sided electric trains and steam railways attract the transport enthusiasts. Note however, that vintage transport tends to have vintage accessibility!

Transport of a very different kind brings the biggest crowds to the Isle of Man, with the famous TT races attracting tens of thousands of motorbike fans every June. The races take place over 38 miles of ordinary public roads, on which modern motorbikes can reach up to 200 mph. Not surprisingly it is famously dangerous, with 226 deaths since it started in 1907, and lost its status as a world championship race in the 1970s, following a boycott by leading riders. Many of the deaths and serious injuries today involve members of the public, who are allowed to race around part of the course on what is known as “Mad Sunday”.

For those seeking more peaceful activities, take the electric train to Laxey to see the Lady Isabella, otherwise known as the largest working waterwheel in the world. Built originally to serve the nearby mines, the wheel and mines are now a full-time tourist attraction. Beautiful views are available for those energetic enough to walk up the spiral staircase, but beware if you are prone to vertigo!

The National Folk Museum on the southern tip of the island at Cregneash provides a delightful illustration of the traditional lives of Manx crofters, around the central focus of Harry Kelly’s Cottage.

The natural environment lends itself to certain activities. Walkers enjoy the (small) mountains, glens and coastline; birdwatchers visit to see several types of birds that are rare in the British Isles; and of course, there are plenty of sailing opportunities, including “Sailing for the Disabled” based in Douglas.

If you are interested in history, you may already know that the Isle of Man boasts the oldest parliament in the world, known as Tynwald, and the original site hosts a meeting of the modern Tynwald in July each year, accompanied by a local fair. Indeed the island has plenty to interest history buffs with castles at Peel and Castle Rushen, the Manx Museum in Douglas, Neolithic burial chambers at The Meayll Circle, and fascinating collections of Celtic crosses at various locations. The House of Manannan in Peel is a sort of Manx “Jorvic”, and fun for all the family.

The foodies among you will know about Manx kippers. Though generally caught by non-Manx fishermen these days, they are still smoked on the island. Also recommended are the island’s Queenies, rated by The BBC’s Hairy Bikers as the best scallops in the world. Beer drinkers will want to try O’Kells Ales, and the island’s cheeses have a growing reputation. My personal favourite is Manx ice cream, which in my childhood always tasted far better than anything available on the mainland… though maybe that was the flavour of holidays!

The weather is very similar to the north of England, though slightly milder as it benefits from the Gulf Stream. However, beware “Manannan’s Cloak”, which is the thick mist that can quickly descend on the island, and according to folklore protected the Manx people from invasion at numerous points in history.

Helpfully, the DisabledGo – Isle of Man Access Guide opens the door on over 1,200 of the island’s buildings and activities including hotels, restaurants, shops and businesses giving information about access.

One final tip. If you are driving from the airport to Douglas on the A5 road, make sure you say “hello” to the fairies when crossing the Fairy Bridge. The locals will certainly tell you that all manner of misfortune might come your way if you fail to do so, and taxi drivers have been known to stop the car by the bridge until passengers observe the local custom!

WIGHT OPEN SPACE

Affectionately dubbed “God’s Little Waiting Room”, Jenny Meredith finds that the Isle of Wight certainly packs diversity into its 23 by 13 miles of fossil-laden cliffs, winding coastal paths, meadowed downs and estuarine reed banks

Its natural beauty is one of the island’s main attractions, but the hilly landscape often causes access problems. Navigating narrow pavements in chocolate-box villages like Godshill and Brading can be tricky during high season. Many quaint tea-shops offer limited access and though Tourist Information Centres provide guides clearly marking accessible attractions, they are less forthcoming with information about accessible accommodation.

Attractions promoting themselves as accessible include a waxworks, a crammed doll museum, botanic gardens, a ten acre vineyard, an underwater archeology centre and the Quay Arts Centre, where I got stuck in the accessible (and thankfully open) lift. At least I can positively report on the speed of their response to the alarm.

The Quay Arts has level access to all floors, which include several gallery spaces, a good café with plenty of healthy options to choose from, and a theatre. This last is served by an infra-red audio system, with an update to a proper loop system imminent.

Geographically close (sitting approximately four miles off England), the island is culturally worlds apart. A ten-minute trip across the Solent and you swap Portsmouth’s urban hustle for the island’s rural charm. And, although you can step back in time, travelling in the rattling 1950s London Underground carriages on the Ryde to Shanklin IslandLine, or on “The Old Girl” a 1939 open-top bus, you can still find plenty of innovators amongst this community of 138,000.

Peak season, temporarily doubling the population, lasts only ten weeks, which is a pity, since the island’s sheltered position means it enjoys some of the country’s highest sunshine-hour ratings. And this climate can be enjoyed out of season too. So discerning holidaymakers will benefit from off-peak accommodation tariffs and low-season fares. They’ll enjoy good weather and plenty of space on the heritage coast’s sandy beaches. In fact low season is the best time to experience the island’s charms the way its full-time residents do.

All this could change if fixed-link proposals ever materialise. But, despite the fact this holiday paradise is separated from the mainland by what has been described as the most expensive stretch of water in the world, locals and visitors are constantly campaigning to keep the island just that: an island.

Records show it was once linked to the mainland and Roman armies marched across at low tide. For over 200 years various tunnel schemes have been proposed, the most recent meeting strong opposition in 2001. So your options for getting there remain ferry, ferry or ferry.

I travelled to Shanklin (pictured below left) in October and was treated to a week of Autumn sunshine, more than making up for the wet August we all suffered. Departing Southampton on a Red Funnel car ferry, we relaxed during the picturesque journey to East Cowes.

Eating out can be expensive, but you would get good value at Newport’s Riverside Centre’s fully licensed restaurant. Run for and by disabled people, their vegetarian dishes were as tasty as the river views.

Driving on the island is relaxing too, with little traffic, no rush hour jams to avoid and just the bendy, sometimes bumpily surfaced roads to negotiate. Hedged and tree-lined corners can be a bit of a worry to city dwellers contacting combines at close quarters for the first time.

But if you take the roads slowly and enjoy the fabulous scenery, you will not only arrive safely, but will arrive refreshed too.